Epoxy Putty is a great filler because it is hard, durable, and
it sticks in place very well. It can be used on unfinished wood or
Mix a small amount of liquid soap into about 2 ounces of water.
Keep the soapy mixture ready near where you are making the
Pick the Epoxy Stick that is closest in color to the finish you
Use the Leveler Card, an old charge card, or a plastic putty
knife to remove any part of the damage that protrudes higher than
the surface of the wood.
Use a knife to cut off a section of the Epoxy Stick that is
about the same volume as the area to be filled. Cut parallel to the
end of the stick. A section too large will not cause a problem. A
section too small will result in the need for a second filling.
Use your hands (rubber or vinyl gloves are suggested) or a putty
knife to knead the Epoxy Stick that you have cut off until the
color is uniform. If the color is marbleized, more kneading is
required. The working life of the Epoxy is about 6 minutes after
Push the mixed Epoxy into the damage until none of the damage is
exposed. Wetting your fingers (or the gloves) with tap water will
keep the Epoxy from sticking to them.
For finished wood: Dip your finger into the soapy mixture and
distribute it over the Epoxy in the damage.
For unfinished wood: Apply lacquer thinner and distribute it
over the Epoxy in the damage.
Use the Leveler Card, credit card, or plastic putty knife to
shape the Epoxy by pulling off the excess away from the damage.
Repeat this procedure until the Epoxy is level with the surface of
the wood. Continually redistribute the soapy mixture (or add more
lacquer thinner for unfinished wood) as you work. If your damage is
rounded, you'll have to pull the card according to the contour of
the curve so the filler will be the correct shape. If your damage
is flat, simply pull the card over the damage from the most
advantageous direction until the filler is flat and level with the
If wet, dry the area with the cloth being careful not to distort
the curing Epoxy fill.
Allow the filled area to harden for at least 20 minutes.
If you are filling unfinished wood that needs to be stained,
sand with 180 grit aluminum oxide sandpaper, especially since
sanding increases stainability. If, as in our case, you are working
on finished wood, sand with 800 grit waterproof sandpaper, being
careful not to break through the finish into the color. Use the
soapy mixture as a lubricant for the sandpaper.
Use a properly colored Touch Up Marker (as offered on this
website) to color over the filled area or the area may be
Step 13 (optional)
You may choose to top coat the damage. Whatever you decided to
do, try it first in an inconspicuous area to be sure there are no
bad reactions. You will have to make a determination as to what
finish is appropriate. You may decide to brush on a varnish. If you
are comfortable with spraying lacquer from an aerosol, you may be
able to spray the damaged area with clear lacquer. Lacquer for
Brass is available on this website and is suitable for use on wood
as well as brass, as long as the wood has a fairly shiny finish. If
the finish is flat, Lacquer for Brass will be too shiny. After the
lacquer dries, use a pad of 4/0 steel wool to lower the sheen.
Flatter lacquer aerosol finishes are available at many hardware
stores. If you are not comfortable with spraying lacquer, we
suggest that you do not perform this step.